5 biggest gold and diamond jewellery trends to know in 2023: from colourful enamel pieces by Dior an
Take for example Boucheron, inspired by the elements of nature in its Carte Blanche Ailleurs collection, which brings to the fore the power of gold as well as a spectacular association of rattan and diamonds. Meanwhile, Reza’s Dune earrings create the illusion of diamonds resting like frozen dewdrops between sandblasted gold rails and contrasting polished edges.
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1. Enamoured with enamel
There’s never been a chicer time to wear gold, diamond and enamel – ear cuffs, hoops and huggies are great ways to dress up the ear, while rings, chokers and bracelets offer countless ways to be playful. Symbolic designs, as well as geometric and architectural forms with squares and origami formats have all come into play in the past year.
Many gold options offer colour and sparkle with flowing forms or sinuous vines: wrapped, hooped and coiled wires in enamel or lacquer and even hand-painted artwork on mother-of-pearl and stones.
Top pieces
The Color Dior collection is a bold and beautiful mesh in gold, composed of the lacquered letters “CD”, while Greek designer Nikos Koulis seeks to pare back colour and opts for black enamel in the Together collection’s necklace and cuff in yellow gold, accentuated with baguette and square white diamonds.
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2. Jewellery links
Several jewellery designers are taking cues from the catwalks to drive jewellery links in a more fashionable direction. Paper links, Cuban links and puffed mariner links are some of the popular styles that are inspiring designs ranging from collectible classics to urban chic.
Great chain links aren’t limited to chokers or long necklaces either: designers offer both chunky and super-slim links, across a bevy of wearables, including ear cuff connectors and body chains. Signature links from designers ensure their pieces stand out, while an extra pop of colour makes them that much cooler.
Enamel or lacquer have helped New Age links come a long way – whether peppered with stones or encrusted with all-around pavé diamonds, gold texturing or accents in coloured gems. Meanwhile, contrasting colours of diamonds – white and black – or alternating links in gold and sparkling gems, have found favour among jewellery wearers. Why not create a “neck mess”, using link chain necklaces in varied lengths. Or better still, accent it with pendants, initials, medallions, letters and charms for some drama.Chain necklaces work best when worn casually in layers of two or three over a T-shirt, or to add interest over a chunky winter knit. Meanwhile, linked bracelets in various widths and metal colours in jaunty styles will help you score your style goals.
Top pieces:
Tiffany’s Hardwear link collection, available in plain gold or adorned with diamonds, captures the spirit of New York City. Vhernier relies on titanium and gold to craft the Mon Jeu collection, which feature openwork links that can turn a bracelet into a necklace by sliding in the necessary links.
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3. Lucky charms
Talismans and totems have long been popular. Whether religious symbols or rooted in superstition, the idea holds that they bring the wearer good fortune or protection. Over the years, these symbols have taken on a life of their own and transformed into jewellery staples, and with the pandemic, the desire to wear charms strengthened: to some it seemed to help anchor inner restlessness and rustle up some good energy. Those seeking a deeper significance in life may therefore like to wear jewellery that is symbolic or talismanic.
The eye wards off evil while the hand of Hamsa, a popular sign in the Middle East, promises to protect you. The crescent moon and the turtle are said to channel positive vibes. If you aren’t the spiritual type, look for flowers, trees and birds that instil a feeling of calm. Clover leaf and horseshoe charms may bring luck, while initials, letter charms, zodiac signs and hidden messages, although not talismanic, can contain much personal meaning.
Top pieces:
Anna Maccieri Rossi relies on hand-painted abstract art rendered across stones and mother-of-pearl for her diamond-accented charms strung on a beaded necklace, while Savolinna’s Hessa Al Shafar embraces zodiac signs in her gold charms encircled in enamel and peppered with diamonds.
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4. Significant signets
Signet rings have been around for centuries and, back in the day, were used as a stamp to seal documents in hot wax. Historically, these were worn only by men and featured the family crest, monogram or other symbols, embodying power, status and wealth. Worn on the little finger, signet rings have been favoured by pharaohs, kings and – in more recent times – queens, but today they rarely illustrate a family seal.
Pinkie rings – more recently popularised by gangsters, rappers and hip-hop artists – have been given a cool look by designers, who have rolled out gender-neutral styles with textured surfaces enhanced by pavé, chubby style signets and mismatched gem combinations. Engraved initials, motifs, words or symbols add personality, and modern architectural versions feature double shanks as designers revel in creative freedom.
Top pieces:
Lebanese designer Dina Kamal put signets on everyone’s radar several years ago with bold, architectural forms, while British brand Rebus – famed for engraved signet rings – successfully renews a love for the style with an array of engravable options in gold combined with understated sparkle.
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5. Keepsake lockets
Originally used as keepsakes filled with precious droplets of perfume, locks of hair or even poison, lockets evolved from amulets and became popular during the 19th century. Now they are having a moment once again with the revival of vintage jewellery designs.
Round shapes, orbs, ovals and heart-shaped lockets have been given shimmering makeovers (think diamonds again!), while traditional clunky locket shapes have been swapped for stars, irregular forms, hexagons and boxy cylinders. Floral wreaths, sea creatures, engravings and zodiac symbols detailed in diamonds with enamel accents and hints of coloured gems reinforce the locket’s status as a bold accessory. Chambers, hidden closures, detailed hinges, encased gems and pictures, personal motifs … all can hold meaning in miniature.
Top pieces:
Monica Rich Kosann transforms gold and diamond keepsakes into beautiful lockets while Marie Lichtenberg adds pops of colour to enamel designs sporting meaningful words. Arman Sarkisyan revives the love of old-world jewellery, creating ornate details and a diamond-decked bow.
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